Friday, May 31, 2013

DIY Camera Rain Cover

Here is quick way of making a DIY Camera Rain cover with items from home

 Items I used:
1x 2 1/2 gallon Jumbo Ziplock Bag
8x 6" inch strips of duct tape
1x pair of scissor
1x hood lens
1x black pen

I went with a plastic 2 1/2 gallon jumbo ziplock bag because I found this bag is stronger than a regular shopping bag. Less prone to tear and can be used repeatedly and also folds compact for a pant or camera bag pocket.




Step 1. 
Take your roll of duct tape and affix strips to the middle of the plastic bag. The duct tape will strengthen the cut out, preventing it from tearing.

Step 2.
Grab the lens hood of the widest (radius) lens you plan on using. Using a marker out line the inner circle of the lens hood. It will be slightly smaller then lens itself, but this makes it fit snugly around your lens without having to use a rubber band.

This project is pretty cheap, you might already have everything at home. If the you varying width sizes of lenses such as a 77mm and a 62mm you can make 2 or more of these rain covers. They fold up nicely and you can use the marker to identify which one is which. 

Step 3
Open up the bag and insert the scissor into the bag. Start cutting out the circle shape you outlined with the marker. Only cut the hole out of one side of the bag. 

Step 4
Place your camera inside the plastic bag, keeping the bag opening facing down. Slide the lens through the opening and you are set. The 2 1/2 Gallon Bag is be big enough for Full Frame and Crop Sized DSLR cameras. The larger bag size still allows you to access your camera dials, setting buttons, and shutter button. Access to the QR plate is still easy. 
If you have a smaller entry level camera or a point and shoot camera you use the same ideas just on a smaller 1 gallon plastic bag.








Self Gifting for Buding Photographers

Now that the Christmas Rush has a chance to subside, the Christmas morning breakfast is settling in and all the presents are open and wrapping papers strewn over the living room you can guage your loot. And see that you are really a difficult person to shop for considering the amount of gif cards you have received.
Here are some gear recommendations for different money amounts that I think will serve you all year long and outlast those black socks you got in your christmas stocking

Self Gifting for under $25




Photography Books for the Amazon Kindle

The Amazon Kindle makes toting around a seemingly endless library of Photography Books super easy and light weight compared to storing them on your bookshelf or carrying them in your book bag for the office commute.
Here is a list of Kindle Ready Photography Themed Books you can download in just a few minutes





How to Win the Battle of Close-up Photography

Shooting macro or close-up nature photography can be a challenge to find balance between keeping the tiny subject sharp and in focus and also seperate it from the background. You might have to stop down your lens in order to keep the subject in focus but that also increases the focal plane to include the background.
An out-of-focus background is essential to a good close-up photo, because it helps draw attention to your main subject.
But, it’s not always easy to get that nice background. Sometimes the background is just too close, or your subject has a lot of depth (forcing you to try a smaller aperture, which then puts more of the background in focus).
So, how do you deal with this constant battle? Well, here are a few ways:

#1 – Determine the most important part of the image

The first thing you should think about is the most important part of the image. You might think this would always be your main subject, but sometimes the background plays a larger role. Ask yourself what grabbed your attention about this particular flower or insect: did you see the background first? Or, perhaps your subject is extremely rare, so just getting any kind of photo of it is the most important thing.


#2 – Use the depth of field preview button

Read your camera's manual to find the DOF Preview Button. Generally it is located on the right side of the lens mount. When looking through your viewfinder the aperture stays as wide open as your lens can go ie f3.5, f2, f1.8. Even if you dial in an aperture of f13 the aperture blades themselves wont change until you press the shutter button to take an image. By pressing down the DOF Preview Button you can see what your depth of field will be without taking an image.
One issue with determening the depth of field and in focus areas after you stop down your aperture is the lack of ambient light coming though the lens. You might need to add another light source so you can see the subject in the viewfinder.
Modern DSLR have LCD screens which have Live Preview. This makes things a bit easier to judge focus rather than looking through the viewfinder.

#3 – Don’t obsess over sharpness

A good quality composition will offset some sharpness issues. Photography is in the eye of the beholder and the your viewer will be more interested in a well composed image rather than a tack sharp image with mediocre background. Do not fret over loosing a little bit of sharpness by stopping down your lens. There are many options for software that can adjust the focus are in post production as well.

#4 – Don’t be afraid to keep searching for a better subject

Good Nature photographs take a lot of time and patients. There are many outside influences you can not control while out shooting. The insects might get startled and run, fly off. The lighting might be poor and even a tiny gust of wind will make taking an image very difficult.
If you’ve tried photographing your subject from a bunch of different angles and apertures settings but still have not made that one fantastic image, you might just have to continue looking for another subject.

Friday, May 10, 2013

Think Tank Photo releases Mirrorless Camera Bags

My friends over at Think Tank Photo just announced their first camera bag collection for Mirrorless cameras, the Mirrorless Movers™.  The Mirrorless Movers come in four sizes that range in size from the Mirrorless Mover 5, which fits one small size mirrorless body with a small telephoto or pancake lens attached, up to the Mirrorless Mover 30i, which fits one medium to large size mirrorless body plus two to four lenses and an iPad.

As is their design philosophy, Think Tank placed a premium on quality.  The new bags utilize metal hardware instead of plastic buckles, and only high quality fabrics, YKK zippers and a new, magnetic closure.  In the words of their president and lead designer Doug Murdoch, “The Mirrorless Movers offer photographers quality in their camera bags worthy of their investment in these sophisticated, expensive camera systems.”

When you click on this special link you will receive free gear with all orders of $50 or more and free shipping on all orders if you order by May 31, 2013.

The four sizes are:



·         The MirrorlessMover 5 fits one small size mirrorless body with a small telephoto or pancake lens attached. It is sized for the Canon EOS–M, Leica D–Lux, Nikon 1 series, Olympus E–PM2, E–PL5, EP–3, Panasonic GF3, Sony NEX–C3, or similar sized bodies.
·         The MirrorlessMover 10 fits one medium size mirrorless body plus one to two lenses and additional accessories. It is sized for the Leica V–Lux, Olympus OM–D E–M5, Panasonic G3, GF5, GH2, Samsung NX5, NX11, NX210, Sony NEX–5, NEX–6, NEX–7, or similar sized/smaller bodies.
·         The MirrorlessMover 20 fits one medium size mirrorless body plus two to three lenses and additional accessories. It is sized for the Leica V–Lux, Olympus OM–D E–M5, Panasonic G3, GF5, GH2, Samsung NX5, NX11, NX210, Sony NEX–5, NEX–6, NEX–7, or similar sized/smaller bodies.
·         The MirrorlessMover 30i fits one medium to large size mirrorless body plus two to four lenses, iPad, and additional accessories or a small–size DSLR and one to three small telephoto lenses or primes. It is sized for the Fuji X–Pro 1, Leica M8, Panasonic GH3 or similar sized/smaller bodies. Small DSLRs: Canon Rebel, Nikon D3200/D5200, Sony SLT–A55/A37 or similar sized bodies. 


Free Laptop Case

Monday, April 29, 2013

Benefits of a stable Tripod

Many beginner and serious amateur photographers get introduced the world of landscape images by taking shots while on vacation or around their home town. These shots are generally taken during the bright hours of the day. To emulate the scenic landscapes that we grew up seeing in magazines such as National Geographic or on Google Plus one needs to find the best lighting for the subject. This can be dawn, dusk or dark night long exposure. To go beyond hand held and to the next step to improving ones photography skill is to find the best light conditions for your composition. The Blue Hour and sunrise times of day however require longer shutter speeds do to the lack of ambient light. The shutter speed would be too slow for hand held and cranking up the ISO just introduces more digital noise and grain into the image. After purchasing a camera and lens the next item generaly is a tripod. Tripods offer a stable platform for longer exposures, bracketing images and help keep an image sharper than hand holding.  
 When you first start shopping around for a tripod, you might be a little shocked by the price range: there’s some for $20 and then there’s others for hundreds of dollars.
So, what’s the deal with that huge price range? How could something so simple cost so much? Three metal legs for $500?
My first tripod was a family erlume hand-me down from the 80s after I purchased my first DSLR in 2008. The tripod was stiff and hard to setup, so I went to a big box store and purchased a generic $39 tripod. I tried to use it for about 6 months before the cheap tripod started showing its faults. I had also lost the tripod mounting plate while out on road trip once and found it nearly impossible to find the correct one even at a chain store of the same retailer.
 After 6 months my interest in shooting landscapes, sunrises, sunsets and wildlife kept growing stronger so I decided to invest in a good tripod. I went to a family run camera store that carry s a variety of quality photography equipmetn and spent almost 1hr talking to the clerk about what kind of tripod would be a proper long term investment. I still own and use that very same tripod I purchased in 2008. Its been on day trips, long road trips, all over the USA, on volcanoes, forest trails, snow capped mountains, rocky and sandy beaches and has served me well. I did have it sent in for a factory warranty service after 2 years because some of the tripod legs were not locking properly but after 3 weeks I had it back in time for an airshow.

The good part is that you don’t necessarily need to spend $500 on your first tripod. There are some very good ones for about $150, and they’re monumentally better than those generic tripods.
Here are two of the biggest benefits you’ll experience with a “good” tripod:


Why I <3 italian made gear

#1 – More stability

The job of the tripod is to keep your camera still, so it’s important to have a stable tripod. Stability means that once you lock in your camera on the head of the tripod, then your camera completely stops moving. How much your camera slides and/or shakes after locking it in will vary with the quality of the tripod and head.
If you’re already using a pretty good tripod, and you still notice a lot of sliding and/or shaking after you lock in your camera, then make sure your tripod and head can handle the amount of weight you’re putting on it (multiply the weight of your camera and lens by three, and this number should be less than the load capacity of the tripod). And, if you’re using a long lens, you might need a tripod collar for the lens, since the center of gravity shifts sometimes with those longer lenses (generally anything longer than 200mm needs a collar).

#2 – Quick to set up

A good tripod will also be designed so it’s very easy and quick to set up. This is really important in nature photography, because many of those special moments don’t last too long.
Before you invest a lot of money in a tripod, I’d recommend trying out a few different designs at a camera store. See what design works best for you. For example, some people really like tripod legs with latches, while others prefer the legs that you can just screw loose.

#3- Better Build Quality

As the price goes up so does the build quality, materials used, and features. Leaving the factory many brand names such as Manfrotto, Oben, Giotos and Really Right STuff have a good quality assuarnce check and have a good warranty program.
You may not initalially see the difference in weight between tripods. Going from the trunk of the car to the overlook parking lot is different than carrying it or strapping it to your camera bag for 1hr or more on walks. That is when you will start to desire a light weight build material.
They options you have in the $150-$250 price range offer good stabililty, features and weight. Unlike a camera body or lens that everyone seem to crave the next update, a high quality tripod can last you years of service provided you treat it well. This makes the cost of owning a $300 tripod over 3 years less than $8 a month. Cheaper than buying a bottle of pain killers for your sore neck and back after lugging around a heavy cheap tripod.

#4- Features

The collapsible and extendable height are part of the price point. Cheaper tripods might only have 2 or 3 sections and not extend very high. If you stand 5'10 but the tripod only extends to 5' you will be hunching over to see your viewfinder. If you frequently plan on flying or packing your tripod into luggage you would be looking for a tripod that packs down fairly small.
Some tripods legs fold almost flat allowing your camera to be very low to the ground. Others have the options to reverse the center column so that your camera can be mounted just a few inches off the ground for low angles.

#5- Ball Heads

The ball head is the connection between your camera and the legs of the tripod. The ball head allows you to rotate and position your camera plane. You can start off with a quality ball head and over time upgrade the legs to more sturdier and lighter legs. 


If these benefits still aren’t enough to convince you, then I’d highly recommend trying out a few tripods at a camera store, renting one over the weekend or borrowing one from a friend.

lens rental

Gear Used during these shoots
 
How to shoot landscape photography Images, I am looking for landscape photography images, how do i shoot a waterfall, how do i shoot landscape images, how do improve my photography, simple steps to improving your photography, amazing landscapes, amazing waterfalls, waterfall photography, tutorilas, photography tutorials, I need help, Waterfall Photography Tutorial

Tips on Shooting Waterfalls




Tutorial Details:
Suggested Gear
Pre-planning
Technique
Suggested Gear:
Wide Angle Zoom lens, Polarizing Filter, Tripod, Cable Release, Boots, Micro Fiber Cloth, Appropriate Clothing, Backpack Camera Bag


Step 1: You hear that Sound? Finding Waterfall locations 

There is a good chance no matter where you live you have some type of waterfall nearby. They might range in size and height but when it comes down to making an image of a waterfall the same gear and techniques can be used on a 10 foot waterfall or on a 200 foot waterfall. 
The internet is a great resource in researching possible waterfalls nearby or at a future travel destination. Sites such as Flickr have thousands of images of waterfalls from around the world and possibly a few close to own locations. Use the search feature to narrow down the field to your home town or a destination you plan on visiting. Many amateur and professional photographers will properly identify the falls by name and location. You can then use the name of waterfall in the your search engine to gather more details on the falls such as location and height.
Most often getting to a waterfall requires some footwork to get to them. It can be just off the roadway or may require a hike to get to it. When building a list of waterfalls make sure you understand the difficulty of getting to a certain waterfall. I recommend wearing approapite layers for the conditions, sturdy waterproof footwear, backpack camera bag, and light tripod.

Waterfalls require two things: A water source and Elevation

Late spring and early fall offer the best conditions to taking waterfall images. The rising temperatures high a top the mountain cause snow melt to run off the mountain filling streams and rivers with millions of gallons of water which later cascade over the edges. Arriving later in the hot summer months when there is less water in the streams will shrink the overall waterfall. Recent rain fall can replenish some of the water up stream from the falls but only for 1-2 days. 
Conditions around the waterfall are still pretty cold and wet. Even if the sun shines bright on your drive to the falls do not forget to wear appropriate layers of clothing a proper shoes to take the last mile to the location. You would not want to have to cut your time short on location just because you suddenly feel cold and wet. 
Staying comfortable on any photography shoot is very important. If you start to feel cold and wet your patience will start to wain and your composition and images will suffer. An agitated photographer only leaves with snapshots.


Step 2: Visit the waterfall at the right time

I already mentioned spring and early summer for the best water levels. The next variable to consider for your shoot is ambient light. Many waterfalls are tucked inside canyons or underneath thick tree canopy's which makes having good light difficult. Depending on the falls orientation some waterfalls are best shot in the late afternoon sun because they face to the west. Others that face east would be better photographed in the morning. 
The Photographers Ephemeris and smartphone apps such as SunSeeker  can help you determine the best light for the time of the day.

Step 3: The Camera Gear

1. A camera capabale of manual controls to adjust aperture and shutter speed
2. A sturdy tripod for the long exposures
3. A cable release to avoid camera shake
4. A Polarzier filter to cut through the reflections and glare on top of the water
5. A Neutral Density Filter to balance foreground with bright skies
6. A bunch of micro fiber clothes to wipe off moisture from the lens and camera body

Step 4: Composing your Image 


Walk around the falls to take in different angles on the falls. Shooting at different angles work better than straight head on shots sometimes. While looking at the falls keep an eye out for possible distracting elements in the frame such as fall branches or trees
Using a wide angle lens really helps fill the frame with the waterfall. For a more intimate shot of a certain portion of the waterfall long zoom lenses can also be used.  

Step 5: Making an Silky Waterfall Image

The difference between a snapshot of a waterfall and a composed image is the use of a slow shutter speed to allow the water to flow during exposure times resulting in a smooth silk look the moving water. 
Set the camera mode dial to M-Manual in order to set the shutter speed required for the light conditions and the aperture for the depth of field in the image.
Use the lowest ISO setting on your camera usually 50 or 100 ISO for the best quality files. 
Start out by taking an image with 1/30s and F10 and see what results you get. If the image is very bright start closing the aperture down to f16 or f20 to lose some of the light value. If your lens does not stop down far enough adding a 3 stop Density filter will help knock down the ambient light low enough to allow for those long exposures. 
An exposure time of 1/30, 1/10 or slower is required to make the water flow appear silk and smooth. 
It may take a series of practice shots before you match up the right shutter speed for your intended composition. And that is why shooting in Manual Mode
Attempting to hand held a waterfall shot is very difficult, that is why locking down your camera onto a sturdy tripod is one of the fastest and easiest ways for both beginners and professionals to take sharp and stable images.  


 

Show Me Some Waterfalls !!!


  

Lower Japanese Gulch Stream
Japanese Gulch Stream - Small yet great for practicing slow shutter speed techniques
Sul Duc Falls
Sul Duc Falls, Washington - a more challenging waterfall still using the same tecnique
Multnomah Falls, Columbia River Gorge
Multnomah Falls, Oregon - Great use of a wide angle lens
I hope you grab your camera and tripod this weekend and explore your own neck of the woods to find that small quaint waterfall or that loud thundering waterfall.
These 5 simple steps can help any beginner or photography enthusiast go from vacation snapshot to making great wall worth prints.
You keep shooting

PS If you do not currently own a dedicated wide angle landscape photography lens consider renting one from Borrow Lenses for your next road trip or vacation for 3 days or even a week.

lens rental

Gear Used during these shoots
 
How to shoot landscape photography Images, I am looking for landscape photography images, how do i shoot a waterfall, how do i shoot landscape images, how do improve my photography, simple steps to improving your photography, amazing landscapes, amazing waterfalls, waterfall photography, tutorilas, photography tutorials, I need help, Waterfall Photography Tutorial